Hail Britannia!

Oftentimes, there are places that mean something to us.

To me Britain was a portrait drawn by its literary lights. There were so many of my favorites who made this country & its people come alive through their writing. Austen's Bath, Dame Agatha's sleepy towns and coastal villages, teeming with all manner of mysteries. The quirky gentry of Wodehouse novels. Dickens' candid portrayal of the social underbelly. Heyer's wit, Cronin's conscience. And of course, what would England be without the Bard's color & drama.

So yes, this was a country I waited a very long time to see.

That's the way to London Town...

London is vibrant, fun. Arguably the World's First City, it's hopping and happening. Riding the cradle between history and all things modern, there's much to see and enjoy. Palaces abound, as do Pubs. Tradition is big here, so everything from the change of the guards to hoisting the royal flags harks back to centuries gone. Most monarchs - and there have been numerous - have left their mark on the landscape. There's William the Conqueror who brought castles to England, or Henry VIII who embraced the Protestant ways, to the Victorian contradiction - personal modesty and design opulence.

We saw the Buckingham Palace, St. Paul's Cathedral, the Tower of London, Trafalgar Square and the most evocative of landmarks - the giant clock popularly known as Big Ben and the Tower Bridge. Then there was the vibrance of Picadilly Circus, the lively Regent Street, bridges and waterfronts, all very enjoyable. But more than their visual appeal - which is substantial to start with - are the stories behind most of these places that fascinated us.

And they are interesting - endless sagas of battles & intrigue. Destruction and rebuilding. Conflicts, ideas; visions - some great, others foolhardy. You hear of events that seem unbelievable today - only they actually happened. It boggles the mind to think that this tiny island once ruled a large chunk of the world. And left a definitive impact on most of it. And in London lies the nerve center behind most of this power.

On a more contemporary note, London has a vivacious nightlife, vast entertainment options, interesting neighborhoods and numerous museums, most of them free. That, to me, is reason enough to visit. And revisit.

Historic & Timeless

Just outside London, there are attractions aplenty for the day trippers. Seeing Greenwich with its obsevatory and the Meridian Line aka the GMT gave us quite a thrill. A short train ride took us to Windsor Castle, which has both history and grandeur apart from being the home of a current monarch. The State Apartments are beautiful. Seeing the Kohinoor, however, caused a large pang in my heart. But the black & whites of Prince Charles - as a toddler and then an earnest lad, humainized the royalty as little else did.



Then it was on to Oxford. What visions that conjures up well before you step foot there. This, the much revered of learning seats. The hallowed halls of colleges bear whispers of greatness as well as the youthful shenanigans of its students. But that aside, the city of dreaming spires is simply stunning, architecturally speaking. Each college is grander than the one before, with an fabulous lineup of alumni - Prime Ministers and Nobel laureates. Even as it turns out - Bertie Wooster, fictitious or not.

We also went to Bath, another heritage city. Though loved and popularised by the Victorian literati, its impressive history actually dates back a lot longer. If one overlooks the cars and fast food joints, you can really imagine how towns looked was two hundred years ago. If London was the seat of power of old England, Bath was its social retreat.

The Countryside

In a word - idyllic. Most of rural England is really lovely, and the Cotswolds are a fine example. Oh, the sheer romance of the place - patchwork fields, old limestone cottages dating back 3 or 4 centuries. Gardens overrun with English roses. Narrow roads and scenic riversides; tiny villages and quaintly named towns like Stow-on-Wold, or Moreton-on-the-Marsh. No surprise then that the Cotswolds are named England's Largest Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. We stayed at a Manor House in Gloucestershire which rounded out our English Country experience.

Up North

Getting to the north was half the fun - a very scenic drive and despite the horror stories of English motorways, no traffic snarls whatsoever. When we reached the Lake District or Cumbria in north west England, things only got better. Like a balm to the senses, even the air feels magical here. The lakes are numerous and pretty, the towns worth a linger, but its show stopper definitely lies on the road less travelled. Misty and softly green, the fells(hills) are wondrous. There are ruggedly remote passes that only can be reached through narrow single lane mountain roads. With gradients that seemed to defy gravity - the kind that once you climbed, you didn't want to look back at. If it wasn't an oncoming car, it was the sheep. But the experience - so worth every mile of the trip.

Auld Lang Syne (long, long ago)

Once upon a time, Scotland was a proud, beautiful nation. It still is.

Rolling glens, rugged seascapes, ruined castles - they all tell a story. About the secrets of the highlands and their mystical beauty. Of Scottish clans, their spirit, their music. Of numerous lochs that inspire poetry and legend alike. Of sieges won, but often lost. It's a land that brewed both heroes and rich malts.

Scotland is like its whisky - the flavor gets richer by time, with nuances so subtle that you need to savor them slowly. The highland valleys occasionally teem with life and commerce, but there are places, so remote, so still, that time seems to have paused. And so did we.

Off the western coast, lie a number of islands - the Isle of Skye though well connected to mainland, has the edge of the world feel to it. Scotland is well known for its tweeds and tartans, but the spectacular drives will linger in our minds long after this visit.

Scotland's castles, built for fortification are often in such scenic locales so as to inspire envy. They abound with tales of torment and treachery, but also ambition and valor. Scotland's feud with England might be a matter of the past now, but reminders linger on how long these two nations battled before the reign of James I united them. On a lighter note, the modern day Scots in their soft brogue, will take potshots at their counterparts south, any chance they get.

The major cities - Edinburgh & Inverness, are delightful. Steeped in history, visitor friendly and long on appeal. The Edinburgh Castle, built on an old volcano was a rich insight into Scots' history. We loved the old town, saw the hangouts of Graham Bell and Sean Connery. Heard the tales of Macbeth & Wallace (braveheart). Built on the mouth of Loch Ness, Inverness is the major city in the Highlands. We didn't see the monster, Nessie, but the city is a treat by itself, with great views from the Castle. Our other castle visits - Eilean Donan, Cawdor, Glamis, St. Andrews were fun too.

To be British

The people, I believe, are usually the best part of a place. Friendly and interesting, the Brits are a great blend. Gentlemanly to a fault, or rowdy as they come. For sure this is a country that's obsessed with the royalty, and thrilled by celebrity intrigue. The English wit can be you-blink-and-miss-it subtle. In the cities the pubs are popular hangouts in the evenings, but the tea rooms, especially in the villages are a social conclave. Most restaurants offer a choice of fare enough to gladden any veggie's heart, and for that alone, the UK has my affection.

Despite not producing too many international heroes off late, the sporting spirit looms strong. We were there during the British Grand Prix & Wimbledon, both of which had british champs this year. Predictably, the Press went crazy. Even for the Euro Cup final where Britain wasn't a contender, the excitement on the streets was palpable. Our own sporty highlight was a visit to Wimbledon, and a chance to watch the Tennis. What a thrill that was, in an are-we-really-here, kind of way. Watching and cheering the Indian players only made it more special.

Britain is a country of layers, of dimensions. The Romans came, the Normans conquered, the Saxons survived. Beautiful, for sure - the lay of the land is charming but it's the sweep of history that's truly compelling. Urbane and bucolic, busy and desolate, royal and earthy, every facet of this country left us with a happy aftertaste.

It's no wonder that so many tales and literary masterpieces were born here. And so understandable is the secret of Wordsworth's eloquence. (We could totally see why the Lake District inspired him so).

For oft, when on my couch I lie

In vacant or in pensive mood,

They flash upon that inward eye

Which is the bliss of solitude;

And then my heart with pleasure fills,

And dances with the daffodils.

And therein lies the greatness of a place. In its ability not just to momentarily thrill your eyes and senses, but when you reflect back upon it, to stir your imagination; to touch even, that hidden place in your soul.

North by North West

Once again, the West Coast beckoned. And this time off we went, to Washington & Oregon. Part of the America's Pacific North West, there was much about this corner of the country that we looked forward to. The natural beauty of the terrain, the rain forests & mountains. The bright, modern cities of Seattle & Portland.



Washington

Beautiful, vibrant, lively - what's not to like. Seattle calls itself a MetroNatural city - with good reason. Its scenic setting calmly contrasts with a new age funkiness. In the galleries, street art, contemporary sculpture, even the avant-garde architecture. Mainstream & fringe theatre thrive; grunge music was born here. Cafes abound - chains and stand-alones; charming or rustic - this is after all, coffee country. Home of Microsoft & Amazon; Boeing & Nordstrom, Seattle has boomed with its industry. It is equally famous for the rain, which strangely though is not all that much, just all the time; basically, when it rains it mostly drizzles.



All that, was known. And then there was the unexpected. The city is fairly hilly - with climbs that range from gently meandering to the thrill ride variety. Not content with a goregeous backdrop of 14,000 ft Mount Rainier, Seattle is abundantly blessed with water views too. There's the Puget Sound, Lakes Washington & Union, Elliot & Salmon Bays. So everywhere you go, houses and highways perched on hilltops offer you lovely vistas.



If nature shapes lifestyles, she didn't fail here. Witness the sheer number of artists that make their home in Washington - all that beauty must foster creativity. The waterways inspire all manner of boaters, especially in western part of the state. The marinas are packed, and folks venture seawards soon as the weather clears. Seafood is abundant and much loved. Met people with amazing nautical experiences - from king crab fishing in the high seas - not for the weak hearted; to another who'd been houseboating upto Glacier Bay in Alaska.

We enjoyed the Pike Place Market. What began as a regular farmer's market is as much of a tourist draw now, with offerings simple and exotic. Gourmet pastas, colorful chilli peppers, dried fruit. The sheer noise and liveliness though, were unforgettable.



One can't visit Washington and not ride the Ferry. Water transport is a way of life here. We took a short trip to the San Juans - an archipelago of islands northwest of Seattle. Hilly, dotted with meadows, lined with beaches or rocky dunes - and surrounded by the various moods of the sea, to us it was the highlight of our visit to WA.



Oregon

Then we drove out to Oregon. A state of vivid contrasts, much like its neighbor south. With a spectacular coastline - tall cliffs that abut the Pacific, an ocean drive that's breathtaking, rocky seascapes full of drama. The Oregon Coast is moody & defiant - stiff breezes fly off the Pacific and trust me, places like Cape Foulweather and Devil's Churn have truly earned their name. But its wild beauty left us enraptured. California's Highway 1 was a similar experience, but the nuances here are a shade different.

Further east are the Cascade Mountains topped by

Mount Hood. Snow-covered the year around, the mountain seems to watch over Portland like the stunning sentinel that it is. The drive to Hood and the surrounding country are very appealing. The interstate runs along the length of the Columbia River and we had a visual treat all the way back to Portland.

Between the Cascade & the Coast Ranges lies the charming Willamette Valley - the home of wine and cheese in the state. Beauty and the good life, is all I can say.

We loved Portland. A quintessential small city, but very self-aware. A mecca for singles and cyclists, art and commerce co-exist here happily. The downtown is surrounded by hills with great views from high above. The City of Roses comes alive in spring, florally speaking. I loved Powell's, the largest store in the world for used and new books. Self-confessed the claim might be, but the place is wonderfully huge, smells of old tomes, and has fantastic atmosphere.

Sure, we enjoyed our trip to the North West. But to me, here's what counts - when you've ingested what the travel books and the web-sites say, can a place still surprise you? My answer - a decided Yes!

It was the sights, the experiences. Even nature. We travelled to Seattle on a weekend of rain and fog. So, big deal - Seattle rains and what else could one expect in springtime. From our hotel room, the waters of the Puget Sound looked gray & grim. We knew better than to even expect a view of the Olympic Mountains miles away, so shrouded in cloud cover even on the best of days, that sightings are uncommon.

Sad, but tough luck.

The weather got better in a day or two, but still...

Then, on our last morning there we woke to a bright sky; the Sound gleamed sapphire, and in the far distance lay before us the very elusive, snow-clad Olympics. Softly golden in the rising sun. Towering, yet serene.

Our hearts soared. As surprises go, this was one unbeatable.

The Big Easy

I speak, naturally, of New Orleans. As someone who was lucky enough to visit pre-Katrina, my memories of the city are fond.

The reasons for that are many. It's not just because of the trips to Bourbon Street - the official party central at NO. Sure, we spent every evening there and it was not hard to revel in the cheerful, if less than sober bonhomie. Nor was it only because we were with good friends who made the trip so much more enjoyable.

It's the sheer joie de vivre that characterizes New Orleans - and you see it everywhere. In the music that pulsates through the French Quarter, the savory aromas of Creole cooking that wrap themselves around you. The burst of colour & creativity from the works of street artists. The ease with which conventional religion co-exists with voodoo and the old arts. The home of Mardi Gras & Sugar bowl, Jazz & Zydeco - it's all that & more.

Just steps away from the Quarter's historic flavor, there's the Mississippi. Spanned by bridges and worked by boats, the mighty river has truly shaped the NO's destiny. Built where the river curves, the Crescent City actually lies below the water level. Riverboat gambling is an old tradition here, as is the marine produce. There's an the old joke in Louisiana - if it moves, it can be eaten. Only, it's the truth.

We took a streetcar trip into the Garden District, with its antebellum homes and old money. Window shopped at the antique stores, gazed in wonder at the Mardi Gras & Voodoo museums. Had cafe au lait and beignets - sugar sprinkled french donuts - at Cafe Du Monde. Tasted the Po Boy sandwich - another Louisiana special. Took a day cruise on the river, and another on the Bayou.

Our five days there just flew. Like its famous Gumbo - a savory stew - New Orleans is a melting pot. Of cultures Cajun & Black. Of experiences rich and uplifting. Of auras bright & mysterious.



Le bon temps roule, they say. No wonder - because good times indeed rule here.

Cruising the high seas

For us it was the Travel Channel that did it - made the Cruise Vacations look so good, we had to embark on one.



But happily, the advertising was true - cruises are indeed getaways, in the real sense of the word.



A few years ago, when we sailed, there were no phones or internet on the ship, nor a long, pressing itinerary of must-see things. But the escape is not boring – far from it.



Nothing unique or even off the beaten track, we picked the most popular of options. Sailing out of Miami, Florida, ours was a 5 day trip in the western Caribbean with ports of call at Jamaica and the Cayman Islands. Apart from the 2 day trips, the days were spent at sea were equally amazing.



Cruisin' in Style

Our cruise ship, the Imagination, was huge -3000 plus people. 13 stories high and twice as long as a football field. The ship had a Casino, several restaurants & bars, many pools & hot tubs, a salon, spa, coffee-shop, a jogging track, a mini golf range, TT tables, a library, an auditorium, many decks and a whole lot more. Feel right at home was the general idea. Pretty much everything – from food, accommodations to entertainment – was included in the ticket. All that was left was to lie back and enjoy the resort lifestyle.

Life at Sea

Once we were aboard the ship, our time was our own. Lazed the day away on the numerous loungers on the decks where a live band played peppy music most of the day and basked in the mellow sun, swam lazy laps in the pool or floated in the hot tub. Hit the casino/ salon etc, and in my raring-to-make-the-most-of-this spirit, even joined a host of the activities onboard. A large part of the crew is devoted only to provide organized entertainment for passengers.

Every night a flier was dropped into our room listing the activities for the next day – that’s how many there are – say a session on learning the cha cha, or a how to gem shop, another on losing the holiday flab - much needed, I promise; yet another on improving one's golf strokes and so forth. Bingo games held several times a day, as are casino tournaments, free giveaways and lucky draws. I sadly, won nothing. But truly, we could pick and choose what we wanted to do. If we wanted to.



K opted to relax for most part, and stirred himself – from the sun lounger and a 1000 pg book – long enough to participate in the Ping-pong tournament. Made it till the semi-finals where he ran into a bunch of Koreans with a wicked backhand. I attended the art auctions, won a prize at the gem expo, attended a class on makeovers and basically more than recovered my investment.

All this took care of our days. Every night guests got to see Broadway style musical shows with superb performances, free, of course. There were other fun games like the Hairy Chest Contest, a Newly Weds game, one on Dancing Styles – all hilarious and great fun.





Food Fiesta!

Don’t think that since we were having such a good time, we forgot to eat. No way! The food is a huge highlight of a cruise. A typical day looks like this – breakfast is 7 onwards, noon is lunchtime, followed by high tea, then an hour of ice cream, cookies and sweet yogurts. Dinner can be had at 6 pm, or the 8.30 option.

Still hungry? Then the midnite buffet starts at 11 pm. If one still has room or the inclination to eat, then hit the 24 hr Pizzeria or the Burger counter open most of the day. Did I mention that all this was free.



So what did we do. We ate, then we took a break to rest, then we ate again, after which…..you guessed it, we ate some more! Great choices and presentation. The desserts were a true joy. Got to say though, that the paradise is a tad curtailed for the vegetarians but even so, there's a fair bit to eat.



While breakfast and lunch are casual – we'd load up our plates at the buffet and eat on the deck and enjoy the sun and the sea views, the dinners are dressy affairs in the dining room at pre-assigned tables. We had interesting dinner companions - a Chicago cop & wife, a French-American couple & another Italian pair. Plenty of people take a cruise to celebrate a birthday or an anniversary so there's plenty of cake cutting in the dining room every night.



By land or by sea

Lest I forget, our land excursions were great too. Pristine blue green waters, rolling hills, and charming coastal towns. Jamaicans are v proud of their musical heritage – Reggae – and given that Indian immigrants settled there a century ago, Rotis are a common part of the local cuisine, as are mangoes & coconuts.

There was a bunch of activities to choose from – scuba diving, snorkeling, play with dolphins, cozy up to the Manta Rays, climb a waterfall or simply take a bus tour to see a little bit of the islands. The Caymans have superb beaches, and awesome aquatic options.



At the end of it, our verdict – Wow. We loved every bit of the cruise, the food, the fun, the hospitality and attention to detail that the crew showed. The people were friendly and since everyone was out to have a good time, things were pretty relaxed.



We came back refreshed, thrilled..... Would we go again? Oh yes, in a New York minute!

Rocky route to heaven

On the map, the Rockies seem like a stole gracefully draped over the American West. Up close, the elegance is but a facade. They're rugged as they come, mysterious as hell, and utterly memorable. From northern BC in Canada all the way to New Mexico, the 3000 mile long stretch is possibly the most scenic part of the continent.

The region is huge, the terrain beautiful and pristine. The miles count in millions, the fir, spruce and aspen are numerous. Lakes, gleam like jewels and are ice cold year round. Wildflowers abound in spring and early summer and the bounty of nature is seemingly endless.

The Yellowstone Way

Our travel through the Rockies was mostly into the National Parks in the Region. The Yellowstone Park lies at the heart of the Rockies. Literally too. Located mostly in Wyoming, it's the oldest, arguably the grandest in offerings. A road network spanning the Park in a 150 mile circle made exploring a breeze. But here, ease doesn't equate speed. En route there are a gazillion photo-ops, thermal wonders, wildlife sightings and general preponderance of 'oh wow!' moments.

And lest you believe you're in paradise, the major attractions are just so named to set you straight. The Yellowstone river runs the eastern length of the Park, running through the Yellowstone Canyon, descending at the upper and lower Yellowstone Falls . Southside, lies the sparkling Yellowstone Lake against a backdrop of mountains. Every one gets the picture. Eventually.



The Park's wildlife viewing opportunities are plentiful. We managed to spot the big 5 - the Grizzly, Black bear, Moose, Caribou and a Wolf with cubs. Readily visible are deer, Elk and the Bison. The Bald Eagle for the sharp eyed. All of this traveling the Park road. But Yellowstone is so much more than a motorist's interlude. Since fishing or hunting is not our thing, we hiked through the marked trails in the mountains, working our way to the more difficult ones. Better still, saw the diehards explore the remote backcountry and camp in the wilderness.


























Now, for the best part. The high point of a Yellowstone visit are surely the Geysers - hot springs that erupt every now and then spewing columns of hot water and steam, all thanks to the volcanic activity under the surface. Given that two thirds of earth's geysers are found here, that alone is reason enough to visit. Supervolcanic activity has also created impossibly colorful springs, bubbling mud ponds called Fountain Paint Pots and sulphur rich pools that shimmer in beautiful tones of blue and green. A geologist's holy grail or a visitor wonder - they're unforgettable all the way.

Grand Tetons

Just south of Yellowstone lies the Grand Tetons National Park. Aptly named by the French voyageurs for the mountain range's sharply jutting peaks that seem to rise out of nowhere. In the foreground, lie the Snake River, scenic lakes and alpine flora. Not surprisingly, the Grand Tetons are often called the most photogenic mountains in the Americas. On a wonderfully clear summer afternoon, we drove up to a viewing point that lay across the valley. The snow covered peaks gleamed, while the Indian Paintbrush flowers bloomed in every color possible and then some, in a silence broken only by clicking shutters. Humbly, we wondered if we'd somehow stumbled into a postcard.

Just outside the Park, lies Jackson Hole, a pretty town that's a skiers mecca, especially for the moneyed kind. The stretch of highway heading south, through Wyoming into eastern Idaho has some hair-raising mountain curves matched by incredible scenery.

North of the border we also visited Alberta's Banff and Jasper National Parks. But that's a story that needs a home of its own.

Maybe, a picture is worth a thousand words. But when the sights are so many, where would I possibly find enough words to describe them. You've got to see for yourself