Oftentimes, there are places that mean something to us.To me Britain was a portrait drawn by its literary lights. There were so many of my favorites who made this country & its people come alive through their writing. Austen's Bath, Dame Agatha's sleepy towns and coastal villages, teeming with all manner of mysteries. The quirky gentry of Wodehouse novels. Dickens' candid portrayal of the social underbelly. Heyer's wit, Cronin's conscience. And of course, what would England be without the Bard's color & drama.
So yes, this was a country I waited a very long time to see.
That's the way to London Town...
London is vibrant, fun. Arguably the World's First City, it's hopping and happening. Riding the cradle between history and all things modern, there's much to see and enjoy. Palaces abound, as do Pubs. Tradition is big here, so everything from the change of the guards to hoisting the royal flags harks back to centuries gone. Most monarchs - and there have been numerous - have left their mark on the landscape. There's William the Conqueror who brought castles to England, or Henry VIII who embraced the Protestant ways, to the Victorian contradiction - personal modesty and design opulence.We saw the Buckingham Palace, St. Paul's Cathedral, the Tower of London, Trafalgar Square and the most evocative of landmarks - the giant clock popularly known as Big Ben and the Tower Bridge. Then there was the vibrance of Picadilly Circus, the lively Regent Street, bridges and waterfronts, all very enjoyable. But more than their visual appeal - which is substantial to start with - are the stories behind most of these places that fascinated us.
And they are interesting - endless sagas of battles & intrigue. Destruction and rebuilding. Conflicts, ideas; visions - some great, others foolhardy. You hear of events that seem unbelievable today - only they actually happened. It boggles the mind to think that this tiny island once ruled a large chunk of the world. And left a definitive impact on most of it. And in London lies the nerve center behind most of this power.
On a more contemporary note, London has a vivacious nightlife, vast entertainment options, interesting neighborhoods and numerous museums, most of them free. That, to me, is reason enough to visit. And revisit.
Historic & Timeless
Just outside London, there are attractions aplenty for the day trippers. Seeing Greenwich with its obsevatory and the Meridian Line aka the GMT gave us quite a thrill. A short train ride took us to Windsor Castle, which has both history and grandeur apart from being the home of a current monarch. The State Apartments are beautiful. Seeing the Kohinoor, however, caused a large pang in my heart. But the black & whites of Prince Charles - as a toddler and then an earnest lad, humainized the royalty as little else did.
Then it was on to Oxford. What visions that conjures up well before you step foot there. This, the much revered of learning seats. The hallowed halls of colleges bear whispers of greatness as well as the youthful shenanigans of its students. But that aside, the city of dreaming spires is simply stunning, architecturally speaking. Each college is grander than the one before, with an fabulous lineup of alumni - Prime Ministers and Nobel laureates. Even as it turns out - Bertie Wooster, fictitious or not. We also went to Bath, another heritage city. Though loved and popularised by the Victorian literati, its impressive history actually dates back a lot longer. If one overlooks the cars and fast food joints, you can really imagine how towns looked was two hundred years ago. If London was the seat of power of old England, Bath was its social retreat.
The Countryside
In a word - idyllic. Most of rural England is really lovely, and the Cotswolds are a fine example. Oh, the sheer romance of the place - patchwork fields, old limestone cottages dating back 3 or 4 centuries. Gardens overrun with English roses. Narrow roads and scenic riversides; tiny villages and quaintly named towns like Stow-on-Wold, or Moreton-on-the-Marsh. No surprise then that the Cotswolds are named England's Largest Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. We stayed at a Manor House in Gloucestershire which rounded out our English Country experience.
Up North
Getting to the north was half the fun - a very scenic drive and despite the horror stories of English motorways, no traffic snarls whatsoever. When we reached the Lake District or Cumbria in north west England, things only got better. Like a balm to the senses, even the air feels magical here. The lakes are numerous and pretty, the towns worth a linger, but its show stopper definitely lies on the road less travelled. Misty and softly green, the fells(hills) are wondrous. There are ruggedly remote passes that only can be reached through narrow single lane mountain roads. With gradients that seemed to defy gravity - the kind that once you climbed, you didn't want to look back at. If it wasn't an oncoming car, it was the sheep. But the experience - so worth every mile of the trip.Auld Lang Syne (long, long ago)
Once upon a time, Scotland was a proud, beautiful nation. It still is.
Rolling glens, rugged seascapes, ruined castles - they all tell a story. About the secrets of the highlands and their mystical beauty. Of Scottish clans, their spirit, their music. Of numerous lochs that inspire poetry and legend alike. Of sieges won, but often lost. It's a land that brewed both heroes and rich malts. Scotland is like its whisky - the flavor gets richer by time, with nuances so subtle that you need to savor them slowly. The highland valleys occasionally teem with life and commerce, but there are places, so remote, so still, that time seems to have paused. And so did we.
Off the western coast, lie a number of islands - the Isle of Skye though well connected to mainland, has the edge of the world feel to it. Scotland is well known for its tweeds and tartans, but the spectacular drives will linger in our minds long after this visit.Scotland's castles, built for fortification are often in such scenic locales so as to inspire envy. They abound with tales of torment and treachery, but also ambition and valor. Scotland's feud with England might be a matter of the past now, but reminders linger on how long these two nations battled before the reign of James I united them. On a lighter note, the modern day Scots in their soft brogue, will take potshots at their counterparts south, any chance they get.
The major cities - Edinburgh & Inverness, are delightful. Steeped in history, visitor friendly and long on appeal. The Edinburgh Castle, built on an old volcano was a rich insight into Scots' history. We loved the old town, saw the hangouts of Graham Bell and Sean Connery. Heard the tales of Macbeth & Wallace (braveheart). Built on the mouth of Loch Ness, Inverness is the major city in the Highlands. We didn't see the monster, Nessie, but the city is a treat by itself, with great views from the Castle. Our other castle visits - Eilean Donan, Cawdor, Glamis, St. Andrews were fun too.To be British
The people, I believe, are usually the best part of a place. Friendly and interesting, the Brits are a great blend. Gentlemanly to a fault, or rowdy as they come. For sure this is a country that's obsessed with the royalty, and thrilled by celebrity intrigue. The English wit can be you-blink-and-miss-it subtle. In the cities the pubs are popular hangouts in the evenings, but the tea rooms, especially in the villages are a social conclave. Most restaurants offer a choice of fare enough to gladden any veggie's heart, and for that alone, the UK has my affection.
Despite not producing too many international heroes off late, the sporting spirit looms strong. We were there during the British Grand Prix & Wimbledon, both of which had british champs this year. Predictably, the Press went crazy. Even for the Euro Cup final where Britain wasn't a contender, the excitement on the streets was palpable. Our own sporty highlight was a visit to Wimbledon, and a chance to watch the Tennis. What a thrill that was, in an are-we-really-here, kind of way. Watching and cheering the Indian players only made it more special.Britain is a country of layers, of dimensions. The Romans came, the Normans conquered, the Saxons survived. Beautiful, for sure - the lay of the land is charming but it's the sweep of history that's truly compelling. Urbane and bucolic, busy and desolate, royal and earthy, every facet of this country left us with a happy aftertaste.
It's no wonder that so many tales and literary masterpieces were born here. And so understandable is the secret of Wordsworth's eloquence. (We could totally see why the Lake District inspired him so).
For oft, when on my couch I lie
In vacant or in pensive mood,
They flash upon that inward eye
Which is the bliss of solitude;
And then my heart with pleasure fills,
And dances with the daffodils.
And therein lies the greatness of a place. In its ability not just to momentarily thrill your eyes and senses, but when you reflect back upon it, to stir your imagination; to touch even, that hidden place in your soul.
